We recently spent a week in Malawi, a new country for me (#158) and Khadija (#155). By road, we explored the southern region of Malawi, surrounded on three sides by Mozambique, and the central region by Lake Malawi.

Malawi has several ethnic groups including the Ngoni, who originated from the Zulu nation in South Africa and migrated northwards in the 19th century, spreading across parts of Malawi, Zambia, Mozambique and Tanzania. As they settled, they incorporated local languages and assimilated with local tribes. They are traditionally known for their warrior prowess and ferocity, but today it’s said the men have three favorite things: beer, meat and women. While in Lizulu, we learned the local Ngoni were celebrating Umbizo, a festival which honors past Ngoni kings. We joined them as they engaged in traditional dancing and singing.

Mulanje Massif, an enormous "island mountain" of granite rises sharply from the surrounding plains in southern Malawi. It has over 20 peaks (Sapitwa Peak at 3,000m / 9,850ft is the highest point in Malawi), plateaus, deep valleys, waterfalls, and natural pools. It's a popular hiking destination with a network of huts and extensive trails. There are tea plantations surrounding the massif with hundreds of local workers picking 40 kg / 88 lbs of tea leaves daily.

Cape Maclear is on the Nankumba Peninsula at the southern end of Lake Malawi. It was a great hanging out in this super-safe, laid-backed village for a few days. We also sailed across the lake to an island where we saw a pool of hundreds of the colorful cichlids fish, popular in Europe for aquariums.

The Kungoni Centre of Culture and Art was established by the Mua Mission (founded in 1902) of the Missionaries of Africa, a male Catholic order. This mission celebrates and preserves indigenous cultures and is a must-see when visiting Malawi.

We attended a two-hour dance and music performance of traditional ceremonies, which included the Gule Wamkulu, a ritual masquerade and dance of the Chewa people. Dancers wore full-body costumes and carved masks of wood, cloth and straw depicting animals, spirits, historical figures including Europeans, with each character embodying traits used to instruct audiences in moral and social values.

UPCOMING TRIPS

In March, we’ll be travelling to Guanajuato, a city in central Mexico, to attend the wedding of our close friends Nick and Monica.

RECENT POSTS

​Tonga – Last Remaining Polynesian Monarchy: Captain James Cook, in the 1770s, named Tonga the “Friendly Islands” and the moniker stuck because it’s true. People are warm, hospitable and represent a unique Polynesian culture about 3,000 years old. It’s common to see locals in traditional clothes, such as a man sporting a tupenu, a wrap-around skirt.

Tonga is the last remaining Polynesian kingdom and a nation never colonized. It’s a constitutional monarchy and a strongly Christian nation that is socially conservative. It’s definitely remote as the archipelago of about 170 islands is located in the Southern Hemisphere of the Pacific Ocean and the nearest neighbors are hundreds of kilometers away.

Tonga is a great place for water sports including swimming with humpback whales, surfing, ocean kayaking, game-fishing and year-round diving and snorkeling. Recreation is not limited to the water as these islands have many areas to explore, such as hiking destinations with dramatic viewpoints on Eua, coastal trails on Vavau and volcanoes on Haapai.

SUBWAY PHOTOGRAPHY:

My beautifully printed black and white “Station to Station: Exploring the New York City Subway” coffee table book is still available. You can see all photos @nycsubwaybook on Instagram and New York Subway Book on Facebook. Click here or email me for a signed copy, not available anywhere else!

SOCIALS:

My website www.ExploringEd.com with detailed posts on our trips.

FB: @Ed.Hotchkiss.3 and @Exploring Ed Travel | IG: @Exploring.Ed.Travel​

RECENT BOOKS​:

A Radical Faith: The Assassination of Sister Maura (336 pages, 2016) by Eileen Markey.

In this deeply researched biography, the author tells the story of Sister Maura Clarke, who was killed with three other nuns in 1980 by members of the El Salvador National Guard. The murders occurred near the start of a 12-year civil war that would leave more than 75,000 people dead and spark years of debate about U.S. policy in El Salvador and throughout Latin America. Clarke’s life centered on helping disadvantaged and poor people everywhere she was assigned. In Central America, she realized that the political systems were the main contributors to their unfortunate situation. In advocating for them, she eventually was considered an enemy of the government and paid the ultimate price for her efforts. Khadija and I traveled on this highway in 1983 and saw where the ambush took place.

DONATE

Elephants are especially social and sensitive animals, as we were reminded while observing them in Malawi’s Liwonde National Park.

Sanctuaries are essential to rescue elephants from exploitative industries like tourism, logging and entertainment, as well as being poached for their ivory. Sanctuaries offer specialized medical care and rehabilitation for injured or traumatized animals, while allowing them to live freely in a protective environment. Here are three elephant sanctuaries I just donated to, please consider also contributing.

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​Wildlife SOS was established to make lasting changes to protect and conserve India’s natural heritage, forest and biodiversity. The organization actively works towards creating alternative and sustainable livelihoods for communities that previously depended on wildlife for sustenance. In the district of Mathura, Uttar Pradesh, their Elephant Conservation & Care Centre was established in 2010 in collaboration with the Uttar Pradesh Forest Department.

See my post of our travels in India when we visited the Mathura elephant sanctuary.

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Born from one family’s passion for Kenya and its wilderness, the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust was established in 1977 and is best known for its Orphans' Project, the first and most successful elephant orphan rescue and rehabilitation program in the world. The trust is a pioneering conservation organization, dedicated to the protection of wildlife and the preservation of habitats in East Africa.

While we haven’t been there, friends told us about the good care provided to the elephants. In 2022, we visited Kruger Park, South Africa; see my post about the elephants and other animals we saw.

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The mission of Elephant Care Relief is to create an ethical space in Sri Lanka where domesticated elephants can be cared for properly and avoid the harsh conditions they had previously endured. The organization takes elephants away from tourism exploitation and ensures that they are well nourished and properly treated.

See my post on our trip to Sri Lanka where we saw elephants in Gal Oya National Park.

Happy New Year 🌏… Exploring Ed